Today is day 76, so I am 2.5 months into the trip!
So far, I have gotten to north Oregon, and still need to go to Portland, Mt Hood, and the Columbia Rive Gorge before moving on to Washington State.
I had hoped to be a little further at this point. Though I hadn't put a set time limit on the full trip, I wanted it to be about 5 months, and this doesn't seem likely at the current pace. I also had originally expected the trip to be approximately 20,000 miles, but I am currently at 10,549.6 miles (approximately), so I under estimated my overall mileage as well.
Costs have also been higher than I expected, though I have had a couple of unexpected car repairs along the way that contributed, and I have found myself often saving the money of lodging or camping costs by sleeping in my car, which usually means buying meals instead of making them. I have gotten very adept at climbing into a sleeping bag while sitting in my driver's seat, though - a skill I doubt I will ever find any other use for. I have also made regular meals out of peanut butter and jelly burritos. They never cease to be delicious and nutritious!
Overall, I am quite satisfied with this trip thus far. I continue to meet great people along the way (not always locals, either, since I often visit places that are just as interesting to other tourists as they are to the locals). Yesterday I talked to a photographer from Texas while at Yaquina Head Lighthouse, and later met a couple from Georgia while I was walking a trail at Cape Meares. I do invite a number of the people I meet along the way to look at the blog, even though I know it doesn't get updated as much as I would like, and I know it can be hard to keep interest in it without new pictures being posted more regularly.
Initially, I knew keeping up with this blog would be a difficult endeavor while travelling. I didn't know how difficult. I have over 38,000 pictures from this trip. Simply managing all these is quite a task, no less trying to sort through them and post them online. Writing is also very time consuming. It is my intent to write as detailed a description of the places I visit as possible, trying to be informative and interesting - so that any reader can enjoy the experience along with me.
Often, each day's post takes 3-4 hours to write, and each picture must be uploaded individually (one of the few annoying issues with Blogger), then the arrangement of the pictures and text has to be adjusted - again, one picture at a time. This can add another 3-4 hours per day, so you can see, each day I post can take up to 8 hours to compose. If I were always posting, I'd never have time to travel! I assure you, each day will be completed at some point, but I foresee the duration to almost match the length of the trip.
Thank you for your continued interest in my trip. I know you will be as wowed as I have been by the places I've visited when I get them fully posted, so your continued patience will be rewarded!
Welcome to my blog! Join me on my 20,000 mile journey around the US, as I circumnavigate the country by car, exploring natural and man-made landmarks and other points of interest. I hope you enjoy it. I heartily welcome any suggestions of locations to visit and places to eat along the way. Thank you for your interest!
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Day 75 - Scenic Drive #5 - Yaquina Head Lighthouse (revisited), Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (revisited), Cape Kiwanda, Cape Lookout, Cape Meares, Slept at Nehalem Bay State Park
Day 75 - Scenic Drive #5 - Yaquina Head Lighthouse (revisited), Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (revisited), Cape Kiwanda, Cape Lookout, Cape Meares, Slept at Nehalem Bay State Park
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Day 74 - Scenic Drive #5 - Jessie Honeyman State Park, Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, Strawberry Hill, Adobe Resort Restaurant in Yachats, Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, Yaquina Head Lighthouse, Slept at Walmart
Day 74 - Scenic Drive #5 - Jessie Honeyman State Park, Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, Strawberry Hill, Adobe Resort Restaurant in Yachats, Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, Yaquina Head Lighthouse, Slept at Walmart
Monday, May 28, 2012
Day 73 - Scenic Drive #7 - Toketee Falls, Watson Falls, Old Man and Old Woman, Colliding Rivers Viewpoint, Cavitt Creek Covered Bridge, Rochester Covered Bridge, Scenic Drive #5 - Umpqua Lighthouse, Harbor Light Restaurant in Reedsport, Camped at Jessie Honeyman State Park
Day 73 - Scenic Drive #7 - Toketee Falls, Watson Falls, Old Man and Old Woman, Colliding Rivers Viewpoint, Cavitt Creek Covered Bridge, Rochester Covered Bridge, Scenic Drive #5 - Umpqua Lighthouse, Harbor Light Restaurant in Reedsport, Camped at Jessie Honeyman State Park
Sunday, May 27, 2012
Update!
Finished the scenic drive featuring Crater Lake. Heading to the coast, then I'll cut back over to do the drive of the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood (may involve hopping back and forth between Oregon and Washington along the gorge, since there's a scenic drive on each side).
Day 72 - Scenic Drive #7 - Upper Table Rock, Crater Lake, Rogue Gorge, Rabbit Ears, Diamond Lake - Dinner at South Shore Pizza, Night Photography at Clearwater Falls, Slept at Toketee Falls
Day 72 - Scenic Drive #7 - Upper Table Rock, Crater Lake, Rogue Gorge, Rabbit Ears, Diamond Lake - Dinner at South Shore Pizza, Night Photography at Clearwater Falls, Slept at Toketee Falls
Saturday, May 26, 2012
Day 71 - Oregon Caves National Monument, Scenic Drive #7 - Jacksonville, Travelodge in Medford
Day 71 - Oregon Caves National Monument, Scenic Drive #7 - Jacksonville, Travelodge in Medford
Day 70 - Scenic Drive #9 - Eureka, Loleta Cheese Factory, Trinidad, Redwood National Park, Trees of Mystery, Slept at Walmart in Crescent City
Day 70 - Scenic Drive #9 - Eureka, Loleta Cheese Factory, Trinidad, Redwood National Park, Trees of Mystery, Slept at Walmart in Crescent City
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Day 69 - Scenic Drive #9 - Drive Thru Tree Park in Leggett, Redwood Hwy, Tree House Park, Confusion Hill, One Log House, Grandfather Tree, The Legend Of Bigfoot, Avenue of the Giants, Travelodge in Eureka
Day 69 - Scenic Drive #9 - Drive Thru Tree Park in Leggett, Redwood Hwy, Tree House Park, Confusion Hill, One Log House, Grandfather Tree, The Legend Of Bigfoot, Avenue of the Giants, Travelodge in Eureka
Day 68 - Scenic Drive #11 - Nap at Turnout on Coast, Goat Rock State Park, Fort Ross, Sea Ranch Chapel, Point Arena Lighthouse, Mendocino, Point Cabrillo Lighthouse, Slept in Vista Point North of Fort Bragg
Day 68 - Scenic Drive #11 - Nap at Turnout on Coast, Goat Rock State Park, Fort Ross, Sea Ranch Chapel, Point Arena Lighthouse, Mendocino, Point Cabrillo Lighthouse, Slept in Vista Point North of Fort Bragg
Day 67 - Scenic Drive #11 - Marine Mammal Center, Point Bonita Light House, Muir Woods National Monument, Late Night Laundry #6, No Sleep
Day 67 - Scenic Drive #11 - Marine Mammal Center, Point Bonita Light House, Muir Woods National Monument, Late Night Laundry #6, No Sleep
Day 66 (or 65 cont'd) - San Fancisco Maritime National Historical Park, Ghirardelli, Alcatraz, Partial Solar Eclipse, Cable Car Ride to Downtown and Back, Slept at Marin Headlands Visitor Center
Day 66 (or 65 cont'd) - San Fancisco Maritime National Historical Park, Ghirardelli, Alcatraz, Partial Solar Eclipse, Cable Car Ride to Downtown and Back, Slept at Marin Headlands Visitor Center
Day 65 - New Car Battery, Daytime View from Treasure Island, Pier 39, Fisherman's Wharf, Chocolate-Raisin Bread at Boudin, Coit Tower, Downtown (Transamerica Pyramid), Dinner in China Town, Lombard Street at Night, No Sleep
Day 65 - New Car Battery, Daytime View from Treasure Island, Pier 39, Fisherman's Wharf, Chocolate-Raisin Bread at Boudin, Coit Tower, Downtown (Transamerica Pyramid), Dinner in China Town, Lombard Street at Night, No Sleep
Day 64 - Drove to KOA in North Petaluma (closest to San Fran) and Rejected their Rates, Got Car Jumped by First Friendly Person I Met In San Fran, Golden Gate Park, Fort Point, Walked across Golden Gate from Battery East (and back), Pier 39, Wipeout Bar And Grill, Nighttime View from Treasure Island, Slept at Sears in Richmond
Day 64 - Drove to KOA in North Petaluma (closest to San Fran) and Rejected their Rates, Got Car Jumped by First Friendly Person I Met In San Fran, Golden Gate Park, Fort Point, Walked across Golden Gate from Battery East (and back), Pier 39, Wipeout Bar And Grill, Nighttime View from Treasure Island, Slept at Sears in Richmond
Day 63 - Scenic Drive #13 - Whale Watching Cruise, Chowder Sour Dough Bowl from Old Fisherman's Grotto, Watched Kite Surfers on Hwy 1, Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Point Montara Lighthouse, Slept at Oakland Walmart
Day 63 - Scenic Drive #13 - Whale Watching Cruise, Chowder Sour Dough Bowl from Old Fisherman's Grotto, Watched Kite Surfers on Hwy 1, Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Point Montara Lighthouse, Slept at Oakland Walmart
Day 62 - Scenic Drive #13 - Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Pfeiffer Beach, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, Bixby Brige, Rocky Creek Bridge, Garrapata State Park, Stayed at Travelodge in Monterey
Day 62 - Scenic Drive #13 - Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Pfeiffer Beach, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, Bixby Brige, Rocky Creek Bridge, Garrapata State Park, Stayed at Travelodge in Monterey
Day 61 - Scenic Drive #13 - Old Fisherman's Wharf, Lunch at Gilbert's, Lover's Point, 17 Mile Drive, Dinner at The Tap Room at Pebble Beach, Drove to Julia Pheiffer Burns State Park, Slept in Turnout
Day 61 - Scenic Drive #13 - Old Fisherman's Wharf, Lunch at Gilbert's, Lover's Point, 17 Mile Drive, Dinner at The Tap Room at Pebble Beach, Drove to Julia Pheiffer Burns State Park, Slept in Turnout
Day 60 - Drove from Yosemite to Monterey Bay, Stayed at a Quality Inn
Day 60 - Drove from Yosemite to Monterey Bay, Stayed at a Quality Inn
Monday, May 14, 2012
Two Months!
Today is the 60th day that I have been on the road! I have logged over 8500 miles in this time, and I continue to meet interesting people, and spend a lot of time in interesting and beautiful places. It has been a very rewarding trip thus far, and I expect to continue to be impressed with the natural wonders of this country and the people I meet as I travel around it.
A few casualties: 1 broken tent stake, 1 roll of paper towels that the wind stole from my car in New Mexico, a torn strap on my Osprey day pack, about $50 worth of missing camera filters. I've also had to have some work done on my car, as detailed early, when I was in Mobile, AL. I knew my shocks were near the end of their life when I started, and the gravel roads and potholes are revealing how bad the right rear one is, so it may be necessary to replace them at some point, but I'm going to try to prolong it as much as possible, because it would be much cheaper for me to do when I get home. Careful driving and keeping an eye on road conditions (a habit you develop when you drive a vehicle with relatively low clearance) makes it managable most of the time.
I have just finished 5 days in Yosemite, and am in Merced, en route to Big Sur/ Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, then on to San Francisco. I don't expect to reach the Big Sur parks today, as I will stop when I am near there for some recuperation (shave/shower, place to sleep other than my car).
A few casualties: 1 broken tent stake, 1 roll of paper towels that the wind stole from my car in New Mexico, a torn strap on my Osprey day pack, about $50 worth of missing camera filters. I've also had to have some work done on my car, as detailed early, when I was in Mobile, AL. I knew my shocks were near the end of their life when I started, and the gravel roads and potholes are revealing how bad the right rear one is, so it may be necessary to replace them at some point, but I'm going to try to prolong it as much as possible, because it would be much cheaper for me to do when I get home. Careful driving and keeping an eye on road conditions (a habit you develop when you drive a vehicle with relatively low clearance) makes it managable most of the time.
I have just finished 5 days in Yosemite, and am in Merced, en route to Big Sur/ Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, then on to San Francisco. I don't expect to reach the Big Sur parks today, as I will stop when I am near there for some recuperation (shave/shower, place to sleep other than my car).
Day 59 - Scenic Drive #12 - Drive back to Yosemite - Tioga Road: Olmstead Point, Tuolumne Meadows, Ellery Lake; Afternoon - 10 PM at Mono Lake, Slept in Turnout on Tioga Road
Day 59 - Scenic Drive #12 - Drive back to Yosemite - Tioga Road: Olmstead Point, Tuolumne Meadows, Ellery Lake; Afternoon - 10 PM at Mono Lake, Slept in Turnout on Tioga Road
Day 58 - Yosemite National Park: Ansel Adams Gallery Camera Walk, Browse Ansel Adams Gallery, Visitor Center, Watched Film: Spirit of Yosemite, Yosemite Museum featuring Miwok Indian Culture, Hike to Old Inspiration Point, Slept at Walmart in Atwater
Day 58 - Yosemite National Park: Ansel Adams Gallery Camera Walk, Browse Ansel Adams Gallery, Visitor Center, Watched Film: Spirit of Yosemite, Yosemite Museum featuring Miwok Indian Culture, Hike to Old Inspiration Point, Slept at Walmart in Atwater
Day 57 - Yosemite National Park: Cathedral Beach, Swinging Bridge, Crashed the Will Dunniway Collodion Yosemite Valley Workshop (Wet Plate Photography), Shuttle to The Ahwahnee Hotel, Hike to Mirror Lake, Ranger Walk on Bears at Curry Village, Degnan's Deli, Sign Up for Camera Walk at Ansel Adams Gallery, Hike to Vernal Falls, Cancelled plans to watch “Inspiration for Yosemite Preservation: History of Yosemite Artists” to offer aid on the trail, Slept in Turnout
Day 57 - Yosemite National Park: Cathedral Beach, Swinging Bridge, Crashed the Will Dunniway Collodion Yosemite Valley Workshop (Wet Plate Photography), Shuttle to The Ahwahnee Hotel, Hike to Mirror Lake, Ranger Walk on Bears at Curry Village, Degnan's Deli, Sign Up for Camera Walk at Ansel Adams Gallery, Hike to Vernal Falls, Cancelled plans to watch “Inspiration for Yosemite Preservation: History of Yosemite Artists” to offer aid on the trail, Slept in Turnout
Day 56 - Yosemite National Park: Sunrise at Glacier Point, Hike to Taft Point, Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan Views, Stable Visit, Degnan's Deli, Yosemite Graveyard, Lower Yosemite Fall Trail, Ranger Program at Yosemite Lodge: Magicians and Illusionists
Day 56 - Yosemite National Park: Sunrise at Glacier Point, Hike to Taft Point, Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan Views, Stable Visit, Degnan's Deli, Yosemite Graveyard, Lower Yosemite Fall Trail, Ranger Program at Yosemite Lodge: Magicians and Illusionists
Day 55 - Yosemite National Park: Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point at Dusk, Slept at Chinquapin
Day 55 - Yosemite National Park: Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point at Dusk, Slept at Chinquapin
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Day 54 - Grizzly Falls, Canyon Viewpoint, Roaring River Falls, Hiked to Misty Falls, Revisited Roaring River Falls, Hiked Alternate Roaring River Falls Overlook, Knapp's Cabin, Revisited Canyon Viewpoint, Revisited Grizzly Falls, Toured Boyden Cave Caverns, Junction Viewpoint, Drove to Fresno La Quinta
Day 54 - Grizzly Falls, Canyon Viewpoint, Roaring River Falls, Hiked to Misty Falls, Revisited Roaring River Falls, Hiked Alternate Roaring River Falls Overlook, Knapp's Cabin, Revisited Canyon Viewpoint, Revisited Grizzly Falls, Toured Boyden Cave Caverns, Junction Viewpoint, Drove to Fresno La Quinta
Day 53 - Hiked Big Stump Trail, Grant Grove Trail, Chicago Stump Trail, Ate Lunch/Dinner at Hume Lake, Hiked Hume Lake Trail, Slept at Convict Flat
Day 53 - Hiked Big Stump Trail, Grant Grove Trail, Chicago Stump Trail, Ate Lunch/Dinner at Hume Lake, Hiked Hume Lake Trail, Slept at Convict Flat
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Day 52 - Hiked to Tokopah Falls, Drove to Wukasachi Village to use Internet, Hiked most of Buena Vista Trail in Sequoia National Forest, Drove to Grant Grove Village/Ate at Restaurant
Day 52 - Hiked to Tokopah Falls, Drove to Wukasachi Village to use Internet, Hiked most of Buena Vista Trail in Sequoia National Forest, Drove to Grant Grove Village/Ate at Restaurant
Day 51 - Explored Lodgepole Visitor Center, PBJ Burrito at Pinewood Picnic Area, Went Back to Hanging Rock and Moro Rock, Hiked a Long Route from Beetle Rock to General Sherman Tree (The World's Largest tree), Walked back to Beetle Rock via Generals Hwy, Saw Very End of Sunset from Beetle Rock, Drove to Wuksachi Village to Update Blog, Slept at Lodgepole Visitor Center
Day 51 - Explored Lodgepole Visitor Center, PBJ Burrito at Pinewood Picnic Area, Went Back to Hanging Rock and Moro Rock, Hiked a Long Route from Beetle Rock to General Sherman Tree (The World's Largest tree), Walked back to Beetle Rock via Generals Hwy, Saw Very End of Sunset from Beetle Rock, Drove to Wuksachi Village to Update Blog, Slept at Lodgepole Visitor Center
Day 50 - Laundry Day #5, Drive to Sequoia National Park, Explored Hospital Rock Area, Moro Rock Area Including: Tunnel log, Chimney Tree, Tharp's Log, Slept at Lodgepole Visitor Center
Day 50 - Laundry Day #5, Drive to Sequoia National Park, Explored Hospital Rock Area, Moro Rock Area Including: Tunnel log, Chimney Tree, Tharp's Log, Slept at Lodgepole Visitor Center
Friday, May 4, 2012
Day 49 - Resting in Bakersfield, Haircut, Wienerschnitzel, Buck Owens Crystal Palace
Day 49 - Resting in Bakersfield, Haircut, Wienerschnitzel, Buck Owens Crystal Palace
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Day 48 - Watch Sunrise from Father Crowley Vista, Backtrack to Darwin Falls, State Hwy 178/ Kern River/ South Sequia National Forest, Quality Inn Bakersfield
In a way, this day was all about evolution. Of course, most people that know me know that I think scientifically, and those that have spoken to me regarding evolution know that I have considered the matter at length, and don't hold to the beliefs of the majority of the scientific community, so I usually don't throw around the term, but this day was never-the-less what I consider evolutionary.
Watch Sunrise from Father Crowley Vista
On day 47, I fully explored much of Death Valley, and was ready to leave, but had stopped short of the exit to the park, on a turnoff about 1/4 mile of the Father Crowley Point on State Rte 190 for the night. This is where I woke, and drove on to Father Crowley Point to watch the sunrise.
Backtrack to Darwin Falls
After the sun was up, I continued on past the park exit, then decided I wanted to see one last feature of the park. I backtracked to the rough gravel 1.5 mile road that leads to Darwin Falls (a rougher 2.5 mile portion of this road continues on from the falls trail head to the town of Darwin, but is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle). Sure, I'm using the name of these falls as the basis for calling the whole day evolutionary, but they are aptly named, and much of the day followed fits as well. Keep in mind, this is still in Death Valley - one of the driest parts of the world, and yet, it is a year-round, active waterfall and creek oasis around which greenery and animals flourish that you'd never expect to find in a desert. The hike back to the falls devolves from wide swaths of gravel trails that are well trod by horses and men alike, into subtle pathways over boulders and across fallen tree limbs floating across the creek. I made my way through these, and came to the lower falls, which aren't as tall as the 60 foot upper falls, but do themselves fit the name, as the single stream of falls splash down on the top of a triangular rock, and are separated into two distinct streams. I didn't go on to the upper falls, which are even more remote to access than the lower falls, partially because I didn't know they were there, since the trail head information only included the general map of the whole park with a "you are here" circle around the name of the falls - not very helpful. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed the lower falls, even though the overgrowth made it difficult to get a clear view of them.
State Hwy 178/ Kern River/ South Sequoia National Forest
My original intent after leaving Death valley was to stop at the KOA near Lake Isabella, which is near the southern edge of the Sequioa National Forest, so I figured it would take me out of the desert, and into the woods, which is much more favorable for camping. My route took me from St Rte 190 to St Hwy 178, a road that itself represents evolution of landscape, from the arid desert, to a bouldery mix of Joshua trees and sparse evergreens around Lake Isabella. Unfortunately, though there is some vegetation around, the climate is still quite desert-like.
I just didn't feel like spending the night in the heat, so I decided to keep on driving to Bakersfield - a much bigger city that has several lodging options to choose from, and regular grocery stores where I could restock food and drinks, since I used up all but 1 bottle of water in the desert. As I continued down Hwy 178, just past Lake Isabella, the terrain continued to evolve into a forest - majestic mountains, trees of all sorts, spaced perfectly to see each one and the grass growing on the ground between them. The Kern river winds through the valleys, and the highway snakes along the mountain chain. The only remnant from the transition is the scale of the mountains and the boulders surrounding the countryside. The only way it could be more beautiful is when juxtaposed against the desert landscape I had just left. There are numerous turnouts where you can picnic, fish, or just take in the scenery - it is, after all, a part of the Sequoia National Forest.
Quality Inn Bakersfield
The winding of the road through the mountains straightens as the mountains give way to rolling hills and the river runs through a dam to generate power for the city of Bakersfield. I continued into the city, and, since it was already about 4:30, I stopped for lunch before checking into the Quality Inn (I checked a few other hotels, but they were all much more expensive). The final evolutions of the day were about to occur. First, I transformed my boots from a dirty, sandy mess, back to being clean, with only a few mars from rocks I've climbed to show for the trip thus far, and I also cleaned the salt scum that was covering my sandals from walking around the salt flats of Badwater.
Next, I addressed my car, which I had finally washed on the way to Death Valley. While it only had a thin film of sand on it and a few bugs, I set to work cleaning the windows and wiping off the film. Mostly, I wanted to work on cleaning the inside of my hatch glass, which had developed a nasty film on it over time. I had scrubbed it mostly clean while in Texas, but it was still a bit hard to see through in some places, so I spent a while laying on the gear in my truck, scrubbing the remaining scum that was on it, as people walked by looking at me like I was strange for having my feet hanging out the back of my car's "trunk."
Finally, I evolved. I hadn't had a shower in 5 days, in which time I had sailed in the Pacific for 4 hours, slept at a Walmart, visited the high school home of Bill and Ted, hiked 9 miles from the Griffith Observatory to the Hollywood sign and back, explored the observatory, walked around Hollywood, drove to Santa Monica Pier, slept at a Walmart, explored Calico Ghost Town, drove to Death Valley and watched the sunset from Dante's Point, slept at the Mesquite Sand Dunes, watched the sunrise from the top of one of the higher sand dunes, walked around the Badwater Salt Flats, hiked the Natural Bridge Trail, explored the Devil's Golf Course, the Artist's Palette, ate lunch at Furnace Creek, toured Scotty's Castle, walked around the Bonnie Claire playa in Nevada, hiked around the Ubehebe Crater, slept in a turnoff in Death Valley, watched the sunrise from Father Crowley Vista, drove back to Darwin's Falls, hiked to the lower falls, and drove to Bakersfield. I was filthy, and stank. My hair was clumped, my blue pants had turned sandy brown with white salt stains where I had sat and knelt on the salt flats while checking out salt crystals, and my shirt...well, it was just nasty. I was a walking zombie-animal type of creature that was nothing like the civilized human I am. After cleaning my car and my gear, it was finally time to clean myself. I hopped in the shower and descunged. I was human again (at least, civilized human, though I forgot to shave, but that and a haircut would follow the next day).
Watch Sunrise from Father Crowley Vista
On day 47, I fully explored much of Death Valley, and was ready to leave, but had stopped short of the exit to the park, on a turnoff about 1/4 mile of the Father Crowley Point on State Rte 190 for the night. This is where I woke, and drove on to Father Crowley Point to watch the sunrise.
Backtrack to Darwin Falls
After the sun was up, I continued on past the park exit, then decided I wanted to see one last feature of the park. I backtracked to the rough gravel 1.5 mile road that leads to Darwin Falls (a rougher 2.5 mile portion of this road continues on from the falls trail head to the town of Darwin, but is only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle). Sure, I'm using the name of these falls as the basis for calling the whole day evolutionary, but they are aptly named, and much of the day followed fits as well. Keep in mind, this is still in Death Valley - one of the driest parts of the world, and yet, it is a year-round, active waterfall and creek oasis around which greenery and animals flourish that you'd never expect to find in a desert. The hike back to the falls devolves from wide swaths of gravel trails that are well trod by horses and men alike, into subtle pathways over boulders and across fallen tree limbs floating across the creek. I made my way through these, and came to the lower falls, which aren't as tall as the 60 foot upper falls, but do themselves fit the name, as the single stream of falls splash down on the top of a triangular rock, and are separated into two distinct streams. I didn't go on to the upper falls, which are even more remote to access than the lower falls, partially because I didn't know they were there, since the trail head information only included the general map of the whole park with a "you are here" circle around the name of the falls - not very helpful. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed the lower falls, even though the overgrowth made it difficult to get a clear view of them.
State Hwy 178/ Kern River/ South Sequoia National Forest
My original intent after leaving Death valley was to stop at the KOA near Lake Isabella, which is near the southern edge of the Sequioa National Forest, so I figured it would take me out of the desert, and into the woods, which is much more favorable for camping. My route took me from St Rte 190 to St Hwy 178, a road that itself represents evolution of landscape, from the arid desert, to a bouldery mix of Joshua trees and sparse evergreens around Lake Isabella. Unfortunately, though there is some vegetation around, the climate is still quite desert-like.
I just didn't feel like spending the night in the heat, so I decided to keep on driving to Bakersfield - a much bigger city that has several lodging options to choose from, and regular grocery stores where I could restock food and drinks, since I used up all but 1 bottle of water in the desert. As I continued down Hwy 178, just past Lake Isabella, the terrain continued to evolve into a forest - majestic mountains, trees of all sorts, spaced perfectly to see each one and the grass growing on the ground between them. The Kern river winds through the valleys, and the highway snakes along the mountain chain. The only remnant from the transition is the scale of the mountains and the boulders surrounding the countryside. The only way it could be more beautiful is when juxtaposed against the desert landscape I had just left. There are numerous turnouts where you can picnic, fish, or just take in the scenery - it is, after all, a part of the Sequoia National Forest.
Quality Inn Bakersfield
The winding of the road through the mountains straightens as the mountains give way to rolling hills and the river runs through a dam to generate power for the city of Bakersfield. I continued into the city, and, since it was already about 4:30, I stopped for lunch before checking into the Quality Inn (I checked a few other hotels, but they were all much more expensive). The final evolutions of the day were about to occur. First, I transformed my boots from a dirty, sandy mess, back to being clean, with only a few mars from rocks I've climbed to show for the trip thus far, and I also cleaned the salt scum that was covering my sandals from walking around the salt flats of Badwater.
Next, I addressed my car, which I had finally washed on the way to Death Valley. While it only had a thin film of sand on it and a few bugs, I set to work cleaning the windows and wiping off the film. Mostly, I wanted to work on cleaning the inside of my hatch glass, which had developed a nasty film on it over time. I had scrubbed it mostly clean while in Texas, but it was still a bit hard to see through in some places, so I spent a while laying on the gear in my truck, scrubbing the remaining scum that was on it, as people walked by looking at me like I was strange for having my feet hanging out the back of my car's "trunk."
Finally, I evolved. I hadn't had a shower in 5 days, in which time I had sailed in the Pacific for 4 hours, slept at a Walmart, visited the high school home of Bill and Ted, hiked 9 miles from the Griffith Observatory to the Hollywood sign and back, explored the observatory, walked around Hollywood, drove to Santa Monica Pier, slept at a Walmart, explored Calico Ghost Town, drove to Death Valley and watched the sunset from Dante's Point, slept at the Mesquite Sand Dunes, watched the sunrise from the top of one of the higher sand dunes, walked around the Badwater Salt Flats, hiked the Natural Bridge Trail, explored the Devil's Golf Course, the Artist's Palette, ate lunch at Furnace Creek, toured Scotty's Castle, walked around the Bonnie Claire playa in Nevada, hiked around the Ubehebe Crater, slept in a turnoff in Death Valley, watched the sunrise from Father Crowley Vista, drove back to Darwin's Falls, hiked to the lower falls, and drove to Bakersfield. I was filthy, and stank. My hair was clumped, my blue pants had turned sandy brown with white salt stains where I had sat and knelt on the salt flats while checking out salt crystals, and my shirt...well, it was just nasty. I was a walking zombie-animal type of creature that was nothing like the civilized human I am. After cleaning my car and my gear, it was finally time to clean myself. I hopped in the shower and descunged. I was human again (at least, civilized human, though I forgot to shave, but that and a haircut would follow the next day).
Day 47 - Watch Sunrise from the top of a Mesquite Flat Sand Dune, walk around Badwater Salt Flats, Natural Bridge Trail, Devil's Golf Course, Artist's Palette, Lunch at Furnace Creek Ranch, Scotty's Castle Tour, Bonnie Claire Flat Playa, Ubehebe Crater, Stop for the night at a turnoff on St Hwy 190 near Father Crowley Vista
Day 47 - Watch Sunrise from the top of a Mesquite Flat Sand Dune, walk around Badwater Salt Flats, Natural Bridge Trail, Devil's Golf Course, Artist's Palette, Lunch at Furnace Creek Ranch, Scotty's Castle Tour, Bonnie Claire Flat Playa, Ubehebe Crater, Stop for the night at a turnoff on St Hwy 190 near Father Crowley Vista
Day 46 - First Car Wash, Calico Ghost Town, Death Valley - Dante's View, Drive to Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes
Day 46 - First Car Wash, Calico Ghost Town, Death Valley - Dante's View, Drive to Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes
Day 45 - San Dimas High School, Griffith Park - Hike to Hollywood Sign, Griffith Observatory, Walk around Hollywood and Highland, Hollywood Bowl, Drive to Santa Monica Pier, Rancho Cucamonga Walmart
Day 45 - San Dimas High School, Griffith Park - Hike to Hollywood Sign, Griffith Observatory, Walk around Hollywood and Highland, Hollywood Bowl, Drive to Santa Monica Pier, Rancho Cucamonga Walmart
Day 44 - 4 Hour Sail on The Californian at the San Diego Maritime Museum, Drive to San Dimas Walmart
Day 44 - 4 Hour Sail on The Californian at the San Diego Maritime Museum, Drive to San Dimas Walmart
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